Dziki Wschód
This place came very highly recommended, although one of the key
features that made it so excellent in my fellow drinker’s eyes (“And it’s right
in the centre of all the essential Nazi sites in Lublin!”) might not be high on
everybody’s list of must-have features for a bar. The first thing I discovered
about the place was that the ontap.pl listing was pretty out of date, with only
half of the beers listed on that site being chalked up on the wall. The second
thing was that the list on the wall was also out of date, but
apparently the staff had no chalk and so couldn’t update it. The third
discovery was that the barman may well have been deaf: I ordered, in Polish, a
0.3l strawberry and rhubarb Berliner Weisse to take the edge off a raging
thirst, but instead he gave me a pint of what smelt and tasted like a
Roggenbier. That’s because it was a Roggenbier. Normally questionable service
somewhat irritates me – (to put it mildly), but the Razem na Zycie from
Warsztat Piwowarski was a Roggenbier so good that it could easily have pacified
an enraged female Rhinoseros whose calf had just been taken away from her. The
wonderful nose was spicy and had just a suggestion of smoke, although that
might have had something to do with the Olympic-calibre smokers at the table by
the wide-open door. The mouth was as full and thick as you’d expect for a rye
beer. The only bad part came when the glass was empty. I did consider asking
the barman for another Roggenbier in the hope that he’d serve me a Berliner
Weisse, but instead just ordered from the far more efficient barmaid.
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Razem na Zycie: good enough to make a charging Rhinoceros stop for a swig, not sure about the apparition behind it though |
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Strawberry & rhubarb Berliner Weisse: spot on |
Given that the strawberry and rhubarb Berliner Weisse was from Piwne
Podziemne, it was no surprise that the beer was superb. The nose was at first
nothing but Berliner Weisse, but then rhubarb notes began to come through. As
the pint went on, and warmed up, those notes became stronger. The tartness of
style was nicely offset by strawberry flavours, but not as much of those as the
Art +8 Strawberry Berliner Weisse I’d enjoyed so much in Wroclaw a couple of
weeks ago. Not that that was a bad thing, on such a hot day a tarter beer is
more refreshing and on that day refreshment was very much in order.
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Sezon Ogorkowy, and another pesky ghost |
On the barmaid’s recommendation, next came a Sezon Ogorkowy, again from
Piwne Podziemie, this time a Saison with cucumber and lemon. It’s pretty much
just a saison on the nose, but more of a traditional Saison than the modern
assertive interpretations, all quite subtle. Also subtle is the orgerki, the
same sort of cucumber notes that you might get from a well-made Pimm’s. Maybe a
tiny bit grassy if you sniff hard enough, with a little lemon. The cucumber is
much more noticeable on the mouth but it’s still very much a Saison with
cucumber rather than a cucumber Saison. The quite high carbonation means the
mouthfeel soon gets full. I’d imagine that the carbonation also helps the
slightly herbal flavours which fade to a longish, fairly dry finish. It was certainly
far more interesting and enjoyable than I thought it would be when I wondered
whether to order it. Don't be put off by the name, sometimes weird sounding
beers do actually work out very well. But a word of warning: don't leave it too
long, it oxidized quite badly (although admittedly quite slowly).
Gosebuster, suddenly it's all clear |
A very good Salt Lord |
Seeking a slightly more traditional Gose kick I ordered a Salt Lord. It
was pretty much spot on, I'd have been happy to have been served that pint in
Jabeerwocky itself.
While listening to the possibly deaf barman describing the
Razem na Zycie as a Dunkelweisen I heard him mentioning that Tropicalia was on
tap (although not chalked up on the wall), so I asked the barmaid for a pint.
It was absolutely excellent. Dark tropical fruits, mango, paw-paw,
passion-fruit, and malt notes on the nose. More malt and fruit on the mouth,
with a full rich body. It seemed a lot deeper and richer than I remembered
Tropicalia being, and a second visit to Dziki Wschód the next day, when the
staff had managed to find some chalk and list that day’s beers, revealed why
that was: this is now six percent ABV. OK, so there is some debate about
exactly where the cut-off point for a session beer is, and some people argue
(wrongly in my humble opinion, for a couple of reasons) that the term ‘session
IPA’ is an oxymoron, but six percent simply is not a session IPA.
A too strong Tropicalia “Session IPA” |
In short this is a crackingly good bar. I liked it so much that I came
back the next day for a few beers after visiting a few other spots to see about
writing them up. A return visit on my next trip to Lublin is a nailed on
certainty and it’s very highly recommended for your next trip to Lublin to.
Dziki Wschód
Jasna 7
Tel: 536-850-077
10.00 – 02.00 (Fri.10.00 – 04.00, Sat. noon – 04.00)
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